Hair Haul

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Everyday hair manipulation tips

Many of us only have a rat tail comb that we use to comb our hair everyday. We would take it everywhere and we would always comb and comb and comb...Yet you would wonder, Why does my hair keeps breaking? Well, the answer to your question is that bloody rat tail comb. Before you toss it in the nearest trash can remember that it have its purpose but it is surely not to comb your hair. Do not be ashamed! I too didn't know better. How can a rat tail comb possibly break your hair? Well, when you comb you enter head of hair all that hair strands are forced between the tightly spaced teeth which forces the hair to snag and snap because of the pressure applied. To address the problem is quite simply get a "wide" teeth comb.

 

How to use the following:

 

Rat tail comb- It can be used for smoothing "small" sections of hair to ensure smooth straight from a roller set. The tail of the comb can be used for easy section or parting of the hair especially when your new growth starts coming in.

 

Wide tooth/Rake comb- can be used  to comb the entire head of hair and to detangle.

 

Another offence we are guilty of is "detangling" our hair from root to end. Just stop! Put the comb down! That too cause breakage, excessive shedding and more tangles. The best way to detangle your hair is to start from the ends and gently work your way up using a  "wide" teeth comb. You're now free to take up your comb.

(Left to Right) Rat tail Comb, Rake Comb & Wide Teeth Comb.

 

 

 

Home-made Coconut oil

I must get my pre-poo on! So, I decided to make some coconut oil. There is nothing quite like home-made coconut oil, fresh from the source. Coconut oil is very unique compared to other oils because of it benefits. It prevents the hair shaft from swelling.Secondly, coconut oil is able to bind to the natural protein structure of the hair. This helps the hair retain its natural moisture content and reinforces the hair fiber, making it stronger. Did anyone say liquid gold? Can't wait for my next wash day!!!

Look out for these ingredients

Source: Justgrowalready!

Importance of Pre-pooing

Combing is just one of those things we all have to do on a regular basis for grooming purposes and managing tangles. This is why I have to share with you some interesting facts I read about as a result of a study conducted in 1995. In the study presented at the Annual meeting of Cosmetic Scientists. Researchers sought to isolate and measure the amount of protein the hair strand loses during the simple acts of shampooing and combing. Their hypothesis was that hair fragments from the cuticle layer are chipped away gradually causing eventual deterioration of the hair strand.

As part of the study, the researchers combed strands of hair for 10 strokes, measured protein loss, then combed again for another 10 strokes, measure, and continue with the same process for up to 100 strokes. As you would imagine, they found that the amount of protein loss increased directly in correlation with the number of combing strokes each strand received. The next phase of the study involved shampooing the strands of hair. Following the shampoo, the strands were combed to see how much protein would be lost as a result the process. In this particular study, they tested the effectiveness of two separate shampoos. "Brand B" was found to offer better protection against cuticle chipping protein loss than "Brand A". Not only that, they also noticed that the strand shampooed with Brand B did not increase the protein loss amount as they continued to increase the number of combing strokes. So in other words, "B's" protection of the strand remained consistent no matter how many times the hair was combed during that session. I tried desperately to determine what ingredient(s) were unique to Brand B that set it apart from "A". No clue was given in the study other than the fact that "shampoo B [allowed the hair to] comb significantly more easily than shampoo A."

Overall, the researchers found that protein loss was the highest in non-conditioning shampoos.

Although most of the study was conducted on virgin hair, those involved in the research took it to the next level by testing chemically altered hair (permed/bleached). Obviously, hair that was chemically treated saw the highest amount of protein loss during manipulation. This is due to the changes to the hair shaft after the chemicial treatment. The cuticle layers are more prone to open up as a result of the process. This makes it easier to experience chipping during manipulation.

One of the conclusions made after testing both virgin and processed hair is that the same conditioners which helped to provide some cuticle protection to virgin hair, offered little to no protection when used on the same type of hair after a chemical process. Remember when I posted a link to Royale3086's regimen video? If you recall, Royale said she opts for products made for damaged/dry hair even if her hair looks and feels strong. I have always followed the same reasoning. Don't go by how healthy your hair seems. If you have udergone any chemical process, always reach for extra moisturizing/strengthening products made specifically for chemically treated hair. Your tresses will respond much better to these types of products, and they'll to protect your even after the product has been washed out.

I should also mention that the method researchers used to collect the lost "protein" for measurement was simply by shaking the hair strand in a container of water. The loosened hair fragments would be extracted from the water for assessment. When I read this, I thought about how much protein we could be loosing just from the simple of act regular washing. This study was quite interesting, for me, so I thought I'd list some key tips that we can learn from to protect our hair from this dreaded protein loss.

• Protein loss in the hair strand increased with the number of comb/brush strokes. Knowing this, we should always make sure that when ever we comb, we lubricate the hair with our most effect moisturizer and or natural oil. This will help to create that "ease of combing" which reduces protein loss. Ease of combing=fewer strokes.
• If you are not pre-pooing, shame on you! By pre-pooing, you are providing extra cuticle layer protection prior to the manipulation that will occur during your wash. Even if you aren't scrubbing the hair clean, there will be some friction during the process. Protect your hair, do...not....skip.....the.....pre.....poo.....step.
• Add some coconut oil to the pre-poo. Coconut oil, in a different study, was found to help penetrate the follicle bringing it's nourishing properties all the way down to where the hair needs it most.
• Always go for products designed for weak damaged hair. Even if your hair feels strong at the moment. Remember, the chipping away is gradual. If you aren't always providing your hair that protection, you might find yourself reacting to damage later on instead of protecting your hair from further damage today.
• Use detangling combs to help with ease of combing. Remember, the fewer strokes you use, the better.
• Of course, remember, to use the most extreme care you can whenever handling wet hair.
• Do not stop searching until you find the perfect conditioning shampoo. The more slip/softness the shampoo provides, the more protected your cuticle layer from excessive chipping.
• Stock up on ceramide containing products. Remember, ceramides are the quintessential glue that helps keep the cuticle layer intact. The more ceramide your strand contains, the better chance it has at withstanding damage due to manipulation.

I don't know about you, but I can certainly say that I benefited from learning from the findings that resulted from the study. Going forward, I'll be thinking about the tiny little cuticle chips that I may stand to lose anytime I get lazy, or heavy handed with my hair (especially during the wash).

Hope this helped you. I know it will make a big difference in how I approach my wash going forward.

 

Source: Nadege of Relaxed hair health

 

In my last wash day I experienced the "ah ha" of prepoo-ing but decided I would only do it on days when I clarify. Also I viewed sulfate free shampoo as just a marketing gimmick and a fad but the above article enlightened me in so many ways. What can I say? Knowledge is infinite....

 

 

 

 

Organic Root Stimulator Hairepair Intense Moisture Creme Review

I got to try this product by chance. I got the sample size on my sheen spray.I heard about it but I am very content with my current moisturizer (see regimen) so I was not eager to purchase it. This product smells great and it is very light weight. I think this is suitable for persons with fine hair who do not wish for their to be weighed down.

Hair care jargons

Here are some words to get familiar with while on your hair care journey.

• Regimen- a routine practiced over a period of time.

• Pre-poo- any form of conditioning that takes place before you use a shampoo.

• Cowash- is washing your hair using a conditioner. (no use of a shampoo)

• Deep conditioning (DC)- is conditioning you hair using protein or moisturizing conditioners for 5 minutes or more.

• Air drying- method by which you allow your hair to dry without any form of heat.

• Chase method- is where a fine tooth comb or a brush is followed by a blow dryer or flat iron.

 

Wash day (4 weeks post)

1.     Pre-pooed using Organics by Africa’s Best Tea-tree Cholesterol with a splash of Organics by Africa’s Best Growth &Strengthening Oil Therapy.

2.     Shampooed with VO5’s Clarifying Shampoo.

3.     Deep conditioned with my concoction (Hair mayo, Moisturizing Conditioner & oil therapy).

4.     Followed up with Optimum’s Deep Conditioning masque to ensure I maintained a perfect moisture and protein balance.

5.     Towel blot my hair and applied Hawaiian Silky Herbal Leave-in Conditioner.

      6.     Detangled and air dried.
       P.s I detangle using an afro comb!

7.     Flat ironed (one pass using the chase method) using ORS Heat Protectant.

 In an earlier post I mentioned my dislike for the cholesterol in step 1 but I figured because of the results it would be more than suitable for pre-pooing. I urge you to make your misses into hits while on your hair journey. Trust me it is rather economical.

Today my plan was to do a roller set but I got tired and I decided to air dry for the first time and it was successful. Air drying would be incorporated into my regimen whenever I want to flat iron because it is less stress on my “mane squeeze”. From here on my blow dryer is officially out of business.

This was my second time pre-pooing. The first time I used Africa’s Best Herbal oil. I think I prefer pre-pooing with the cholesterol. Is pre-pooing necessary? I would say yes if I am clarifying my hair otherwise no because the shampoo (Hawaiian Silky Herbal Ultra moisturizing Shampoo) I am using is not harsh on my hair even though it contains sulfates. Pre-pooing prepares the hair for the shampooing step and since clarifying shampoos are harsh on our delicate hair strands it adds the extra umph to the hair so it is not stripped of all its properties. It was a good experience for me my hair felt clean but not completely stripped. I am yet to try deep conditioning on dry hair to see if my hair would be better off…Stay tuned!:)

 

My Mishaps

Castor oil is just a no go for me even when mixed with other natural oils. After hearing so much good things about it its such a shame. It made my scalp itch, more like hell on earth. I vividly remember one night I rushed into the shower and shampoo my mane because the itching was unbearable. Unfortunately we must go our separate ways.

Yet another disappointment. This left my hair very stiff and when detangling there was excessive shedding.SMH.....

After experimenting with these I believe my scalp is better off if I use a light oil to keep it moisturized. The main problem I encountered with the above products was build up even though the one on the left claims to be "extra light". However, I liked the "tingly" feeling on the scalp after applying both products but my scalp needs to breathe.

Organics Root Stimulator Replenshing Pak Review

 
 
 

    After hearing so much good things about this product I decided to give it a try. When I opened it the scent was very welcoming. I proceeded to applying it my tress and covered with a plastic cap. I was so eager to see the outcome. Disappointed I was.... It felt like I placed glue into my hair because it was so difficult to rinse out. In order to get this 'gluey gummy" product from my hair I shampooed my hair and I said never again. Since then I am reluctant to buy and try new products. Why fix something if it's not broken? On the other hand many great discoveries are made through trial and error. The morale of this experience is something that no two tresses are alike, in order to grow a head of healthy hair you must experiment.

Cravings

 

 

Because I was ignorant ...Part 1 (A great investment)

Let me start of by saying ignorance is not bliss. Nope!!Nope!!!Ignorance leaves you singing "should of ,would of, could of" Enough rambling! I got my first relaxer when I was 12 years old. It was the source of my happiness. Only if I knew what I knew today. Because I was ignorant;

 

• I allowed my naïve hairdresser to constantly flatiron, curled & blow dried my hair after a relaxer.
• I used direct heat regularly without using a heat protectant.

Note that I am not putting down any direct heat tools. I am a firm believer that  all things are good in moderation simply put too much of anything is bad. Continuing where we left of because I was so dense my hair began to break terribly. In conclusion, I learnt the hard way. On the bright side experience is the BEST teacher. Now that I am enlightened I use my heat tools wisely. As I mentioned in my regimen post I use my blow dryer and flat iron the week after my relaxer because freshly relaxed hair requires less passing of a flat iron and such. The latter weeks I roller set using my new love (see picture below). Roller sets are my new best friend. It is time consuming but the beauty of it is that it is not as harsh as your blow dryers, flat  and curling irons on your delicate hair strands.

                                            Gold n Hot Ionic Soft Jumbo Bonnet Dryer

Here's a quick review:
Qualities

1. Great for deep conditioning.
2. Dries hair quickly.
3. Flexible (can be use at your own comfort)
4. Easy storage.

Flaw:

1. The hose gets very hot.

Regimen staples

I try my best not to become a product junkie therefore I strive to keep my regimen simple. I stick to what works. But at the same time I want what is best for my hair so I constantly look at reviews and watch other people to learn a thing or two. Here are my staple products:

 

Relaxer:

ü Optimum regular

Shampoo and conditioner:

ü  Hawaiian Silky Herbal Ultra Moisturizing Shampoo

ü Hawaiian Silky Herbal  Hair repairing conditioner

ü VO5 Clarifying Shampoo

Deep Conditioners:

ü Organics by Africa’s Best Hair Mayonnaise

ü Profectiv Growth Conditioner

ü Optimum Deep Conditioning Masque  

Leave-in:

ü Hawaiian Silky Herbal Leave-in Conditioner

Moisturizer:

ü Organic Root Stimulator Incredibly Rich Hair Lotion

Heat Protectant:

ü Organic Root Stimulator Heat Protecting Serum

Styling:

ü Organics by Africa’s Best Setting Lotion

ü Organics Root Stimulator Nourishing Sheen Spray

 

Regimen

How often do you relax?

• Every 7-8 weeks by a professional.

How often do you wash your hair?

• I wash my hair 1 week after a relaxer because it appears thin. Therefore, after a wash my hair returns to its original fullness.

• Apart from the above I wash when needed(not exceeding 14days).

How often do you deep condition (treat)?

• Every wash. I mostly use protein because my hair loves protein.

How often do you use direct heat?

• The week after a relaxer.

How do you get your hair dry after a wash?

• Roller set under a hooded dryer or air dried roller set

Daily: I moisturize followed by a dry wrap or dry roller set at nights.

What are some protective styles you incorporate in your hair care?

• Buns

Inspiration

After being au natural for exactly a year. Eventually, I decided to relax my hair, that I did. That very day I went to my local beauty supply store where I bought; Vitale Hair Polish, Organics Tea tree & Carrot oil and 3 packs of  Annie's Extra large rollers. I thought that was all I needed. At that moment I was thinking my hair needs to look shiny to be healthy. After experiencing excessive shedding I decided to Google and YouTube my problem which was an enlightening experience. That day I discovered "uluvmegz" channel which was a relief because most videos I encountered were about natural hair care. After watching her videos I came to the realization that relaxed hair can grow long and I definitely needed more products in order to care for my hair. Ultimately, products are not the only means to healthy hair but you must firstly understand and listen to your hair, develop techniques to minimize any form of damage and lastly use products that your hair loves.

 

Proverbs 4:7
 "Wisdom is the principal thing;Therefore get wisdom.And in all your getting, get understanding."

My progress

Hair was never important to me. As a child I always figured that black hair rarely grows because women around me were highly dependent on all forms of extensions. I was told that we (Black women) do not have good hair. What exactly makes our hair bad? I think that understanding for something can change one's perspective. Black women lack the understanding of their hair which leads to improper care which often results to no length retention. I am of the belief that "Good hair" is healthy hair whether you are Indian, Chinese or Black. Without further ado....

 Here is my testimonial:

 12.17.10

 12.29.11              



 03.29.13                           

 

 

GOAL:Armpit Length (APL)